Santorini in June 2026: Why You Should Skip It (and Where to Go Instead)

I first visited Santorini in 2018, and it was magical. I remember sitting on a quiet terrace in Oia, watching the sunset turn the white buildings gold, with only a handful of other tourists around. It felt like a dream. Now June 2026, and I went back for a week. The dream is over. Santorini is now a theme park, and the lines are unbearable.

Let me be clear: I'm not saying Santorini isn't beautiful. It absolutely is. The caldera views, the blue-domed churches, the volcanic beaches — none of that has changed. What has changed is the sheer volume of people. In 2025, Santorini received 3.4 million tourists, up from 2.5 million in 2019. The island has a permanent population of 15,000. Do the math. It's not sustainable.

The Reality of Santorini in 2026

I arrived at Santorini Airport on a Tuesday afternoon. The line for taxis was over an hour long. I ended up taking a bus to Fira, which was packed to the point of standing room only. The bus driver was shouting at people to move back. I've been in crowded subway cars in Tokyo that were less stressful.

Once I got to my hotel in Imerovigli (a supposedly 'quiet' village), I was relieved. The view from my balcony was stunning. But when I tried to walk to Oia for sunset, I hit a wall of people. The path between Fira and Oia is narrow, and it was completely clogged with tour groups. I gave up after 20 minutes and turned back.

Restaurants in Oia now require reservations weeks in advance. The ones that don't have hour-long waits. Prices have skyrocketed: a simple gyros plate that cost €12 in 2018 is now €25. A glass of local wine at a sunset bar costs €15. I felt like I was in Monaco, not a Greek island.

The worst part was the sunset itself. I found a spot near the castle in Oia at 6 PM, an hour before sunset. There were already 200 people jostling for position. By 6:30, it was shoulder-to-shoulder. People were climbing on walls and blocking the view. When the sun finally dipped below the horizon, there was applause — not from awe, but from relief that it was over. It felt performative, not magical.

Where to Go Instead: Three Hidden Gems

I spent the second week of my trip exploring other islands, and I found three that offer the same beauty as Santorini without the crowds. If you want authentic Greek island life, go here instead.

1. Folegandros

Folegandros is about an hour by ferry from Santorini, but it feels like a different world. The main town, Chora, is built on a cliff with views of the Aegean that rival Santorini's caldera. But there are no cruise ships here. No crowds. I walked through Chora at sunset and saw maybe 50 other people. The streets are narrow and winding, with bougainvillea spilling over white walls. The main square has a handful of tavernas where locals eat, and the food is incredible. I had a grilled octopus that was so tender it practically melted.

Accommodation is cheap: I stayed at a family-run guesthouse for €60 a night. The owner, Maria, brought me homemade Greek yogurt and honey every morning. There are no big resorts, no chains. It's just a quiet, beautiful island where you can actually relax.

The beaches are wild and uncrowded. Agios Nikolaos Beach requires a 20-minute hike down a cliff, but it's worth it. The water is crystal clear, and there were only 10 people there when I visited. Compare that to Santorini's Red Beach, which was closed due to rockfall from overcrowding.

2. Milos

Milos is another Cycladic island that's often overlooked in favor of Santorini and Mykonos. It's slightly larger, with a diverse coastline of volcanic rock formations and hidden coves. The beach of Sarakiniko is famous for its white lunar-like rocks, and it's stunning. Yes, it gets busy during the day, but nothing compared to Santorini. I went at 7 AM and had the place to myself.

Milos also has amazing food. The fishing port of Klima has tavernas that serve the catch of the day, simply grilled with lemon and olive oil. I ate at a place called O! Hamos! and had a seafood pasta that I still dream about. The owner, a fisherman named Dimitris, told me he catches the fish himself every morning.

The best part about Milos is that it's easy to get around. You can rent a scooter or a small car and explore at your own pace. The island is small enough that you can see most of it in 3-4 days without rushing.

3. Serifos

Serifos is the least developed of the three. It's a rugged island with a main town (Chora) that sits on a hilltop, surrounded by whitewashed houses and narrow alleys. There are no five-star hotels, no fancy restaurants. Just a few tavernas, a bakery, and a lot of goats.

The beaches are incredible. Livadakia Beach has soft sand and shallow water, perfect for families. Psili Ammos Beach is more remote, requiring a dirt road drive, but the payoff is a long stretch of golden sand with almost nobody on it. I spent an entire afternoon there reading a book and swimming. I think I saw three other people.

Serifos is also cheap. A room in a guesthouse costs around €40 a night. Dinner for two with wine costs about €30. If you're on a tight budget, this is the island for you.

The Bottom Line on Santorini

Look, I get it. Everyone wants to see the memorable blue domes and the famous sunset. And if you've never been to Santorini, I'm not going to tell you to skip it entirely. But go in the shoulder season — May or September — and avoid the cruise ship crowds. Stay in a smaller village like Pyrgos or Megalochori instead of Oia or Fira. And manage your expectations. The Santorini of Instagram is a curated fantasy. The real Santorini is a theme park.

For me, the magic of Greece has always been in the quieter moments: a sunset viewed alone from a cliff, a meal shared with locals, a swim in a cove with no one else around. Santorini can't give you that anymore. But Folegandros, Milos, and Serifos can. Go there instead. Your wallet and your sanity will thank you.

I'm already planning my return trip to Folegandros next spring. Maria promised me more yogurt.