I Spent a Week in Santorini in June 2026 — Here's the Honest Truth About Overtourism

I've wanted to go to Santorini for years. The photos — those white buildings with blue domes, the sunsets over the caldera, the infinity pools — they're everywhere on Instagram. So when I found a cheap flight from New York to Athens in late May, I booked a week in Santorini for early June. I knew it would be crowded. I knew it would be expensive. But I didn't know just how intense it's gotten in 2026.

Let me start with the good, because there is a lot of good. Santorini is genuinely stunning. The geology is incredible — a volcanic caldera that's basically a flooded crater. The light is different there. The sunsets really are that beautiful. The food is fantastic — fresh seafood, good wine, amazing tomatoes. I ate grilled octopus at a taverna in Amoudi Bay that I'll remember for the rest of my life. The people are warm and welcoming. I don't want to sound like I hated it.

But the crowds. Oh my god, the crowds.

What It's Actually Like in June 2026

I arrived on a Tuesday afternoon. Fira, the main town, was packed. I'm not exaggerating — I had to walk single file through some streets because there were so many people. Cruise ships dock at the old port, and they disgorge thousands of passengers at a time. I checked the schedule: on Wednesday, there were five cruise ships. Five. That's roughly 15,000 people descending on an island that has about 15,000 permanent residents. The math is insane.

The famous sunset viewpoint in Oia? I went there at 5:30 PM for a 8:30 PM sunset. Already, there were 200 people jostling for position. By 7 PM, it was a wall of phones. People were setting up tripods, arguing over spots, blocking the path. I found a quieter spot near the castle ruins, but even that was crowded. The sunset was beautiful, but I couldn't enjoy it because I was stressed about my personal space.

The Greek government has been talking about limiting cruise ship arrivals for years, but in 2026, they finally started. In April, they announced a cap of 8,000 cruise passengers per day starting in 2025. But enforcement has been slow. I talked to a local shop owner who told me that the cap isn't being enforced because the cruise companies have contracts and the government is scared of losing revenue. "It's worse than ever," she said. "Last summer, we had 25,000 cruise passengers in one day. It's not sustainable."

The Heat and the Fires

June 2026 has been abnormally hot in Greece. During my week, temperatures hit 38°C (100°F) three days in a row. The heat is oppressive. Walking up the steps from the old port in Fira is a workout — 600 steps in direct sun. I saw people collapsing. There's a cable car, but the line was two hours long. I took a donkey ride once, and I felt terrible for the donkey. It's too hot for them too.

And then there are the fires. In late May, a wildfire broke out on the northern part of the island near the village of Finikia. It was contained, but the smoke drifted over Oia for two days. The air quality was bad. I had to wear a mask. Locals told me this is becoming a yearly thing. The combination of drought, heat, and strong winds makes Santorini a tinderbox. The infrastructure isn't built for this. The roads are narrow and winding. Evacuation would be a nightmare.

Where to Actually Go (Away from the Crowds)

I spent a lot of time figuring out how to escape the crowds. Here's what worked:

Pyrgos. A village on a hill in the center of the island. It's quieter, less touristy, and has amazing views. There's a Venetian castle at the top that's usually empty. I watched the sunset there one night with maybe 20 other people. It was magical. Also, the restaurants are cheaper and better. I had lamb chops at a place called Kritikos that were incredible.

Akrotiri Lighthouse. Way on the southwestern tip. It's a bit of a drive, but the sunset is just as good as Oia, and there are maybe 50 people instead of 2,000. Bring a blanket and some wine. You'll thank me.

The beaches on the south coast. Red Beach is famous, but it's crowded and the sand isn't actually sand — it's pebbles. Perivolos Beach on the southeast coast is black sand, less crowded, and has beach clubs where you can rent a lounger for €15. The water is clean and warm. I spent a whole day there reading a book and swimming.

Wine tours. Santorini has a unique wine tradition because the vines are grown in a circle (kouloura) to protect them from the wind. The Assyrtiko wine is excellent. I did a tour at Estate Argyros in Episkopi. It was €35 for a tasting of six wines. The tour guide was passionate and knowledgeable. It was one of the best afternoons of my trip.

The Practical Stuff

Book everything in advance. I mean everything. Restaurants, hotels, even taxis. I tried to get a table at a popular restaurant in Fira on a Friday night, and the earliest available was 10 PM. Taxis are scarce — there's no Uber, and the local taxi app works maybe 50% of the time. I ended up renting an ATV for €40 a day, which was the best decision I made. You can park anywhere, and it's fun. Just be careful on the winding roads.

Stay in Fira or Oia if you want convenience, but expect noise. I stayed in a hotel in Fira with a pool, and the music from nearby bars played until 2 AM every night. If you want quiet, stay in Pyrgos or Imerovigli. Imerovigli is on the caldera but quieter than Fira. It's more expensive, but worth it.

Bring cash. Many small shops and tavernas don't accept cards. Bring a reusable water bottle — there are water refill stations in some towns, and tap water is safe to drink in most places (though it's desalinated and tastes a bit odd).

Is It Worth Going in 2026?

Yes, but with caveats. Santorini is still breathtakingly beautiful. The food is great. The wine is world-class. But you have to go in with realistic expectations. It's not a relaxing beach vacation. It's a tourist destination that's struggling with its own popularity. If you go in peak season (June to September), you will be surrounded by crowds. If you can, go in May or October. The weather is still good, and the crowds are smaller.

I'm glad I went. I took photos I'll treasure. I ate incredible food. I learned about a unique wine culture. But I also felt guilty — guilty for contributing to the overtourism problem, guilty for the donkeys, guilty for the carbon footprint of my flight. Santorini is a place that needs to be protected. The locals are trying, but they need help. Be a responsible tourist. Stay in local hotels. Eat at family-run tavernas. Don't take the donkey. And for the love of god, find a quieter spot to watch the sunset.